The Pooley Gewurztraminer 2024 is a dry, perfumed Tasmanian white from the Coal River Valley, built on rose petal and orchard fruit rather than the oily weight the variety can bring. Aromatics do the heavy lifting here, but the finish stays crisp and clean.

Lifted florals lead — dried rose petal and Turkish delight — followed by nashi pear, lychee and a touch of confectionery banana. Behind the perfume sits a savoury edge of cardamom and white pepper that keeps the fruit honest.

Fermented in stainless steel and held on fine lees for three months before bottling, this Gewurztraminer carries genuine texture without sweetness. Crab apple and red apple crunch run through the middle, acidity is firm and the finish is bone dry and lingering, which is what separates the Pooley from the softer, sweeter examples of the variety.

A natural fit for aromatic Asian cooking: Vietnamese herb salads, Thai green curry, salt and pepper squid or duck pancakes. Also good with washed-rind cheese, pork belly with apple, or a plate of spiced roast pumpkin and labneh.

Drink from now to 2029. The 2024 is fragrant and ready straight away, though a year or two in the cellar will trade some of that floral lift for honeyed, spicier depth.