Lo Stesso Fiano 2025 is a textural, savoury white from Heathcote in central Victoria, built on citrus and orchard fruit rather than tropical richness. Made by Jasper Hill's Emily McNally from a blend of half estate-grown and half regional Heathcote fruit, it sits drier than earlier releases.

Lemon and grapefruit lead the aromatics, with pear skin, quince and a hint of almond meal sitting behind. Fermentation in a mix of new French oak and stainless steel adds a subtle spice and a faint waxiness without covering the fruit.

The palate is fuller than most Australian Fiano, gliding rather than darting, with a gentle phenolic grip that gives it grain and grip through the middle. Citrus acidity keeps the whole thing tight and the finish is long, dry and faintly savoury, closing on toasted nuts and lemon pith.

That combination of weight and acid makes this a wine for the table rather than the aperitif hour. Try it with roast chicken and lemon, salt-baked snapper, pork with fennel, or a bowl of pasta with olive oil, garlic and greens.

Drink the 2025 Lo Stesso Fiano from now to around 2030. It has plenty to say young, though a year or two in the cellar will soften the phenolics and let the honeyed, nutty side come forward.