The Patina Chardonnay 2023 is a cool-climate white from Orange, NSW, built on citrus drive and a fine, chalky line rather than richness. Orange sits high enough that the fruit holds its acidity, and this vintage shows that clarity clearly.

Grapefruit and white nectarine lead the aromatics, with lemon curd, a touch of nashi pear and a flinty, struck-match edge sitting underneath. There is a faint floral lift as the wine opens in the glass.

The palate is medium-bodied and taut, with grapefruit pith and green apple carrying through a long, mineral finish. Texture comes from a gentle creaminess across the middle, but the acid is the backbone here and it keeps everything tidy and dry rather than broad. Nothing is overdone.

Pour it with roast chicken and lemon, seared scallops, a leek and gruyère tart, or grilled snapper with fennel. It also handles a simple plate of prosciutto and buffalo mozzarella without being overwhelmed, and suits a long lunch better than a heavy dinner.

Drinking well now and over the next five to six years, with the acidity to carry it. Give it twenty minutes out of the fridge before serving, as the detail shows better at around 12 degrees than straight from cold.