Pierrick Laroche's Chablis AC 2023, bottled in magnum under the Domaine des Hâtes label, is a village-level Chablis showing the appellation's signature Kimmeridgian limestone character.

The nose is fresh and citrus-driven, with green apple, lemon and a distinct flinty, oyster-shell minerality underneath. On the palate it's lean and taut, unoaked and built on bright acidity rather than fruit weight, running through to a clean, saline finish.

This is Chablis at its most direct - no adornment, just the site speaking clearly through the glass.

Pour it with fresh oysters, grilled white fish, or a simple goat's cheese salad. It also handles sushi and sashimi very well.

Drinking well now and through the next three to five years, with Chablis of this quality gaining a little roundness without losing its edge.