The Domaine Desvignes Givry Blanc 2023 is a taut, citrus-driven Chardonnay from Givry in Burgundy's Côte Chalonnaise, built on clarity rather than richness. Whole-bunch pressed and fermented with indigenous yeast, it sits on the lean, mineral side of white Burgundy.

Lemon pith, white peach and green apple lead the aroma, with a chalky, almost flinty edge behind the fruit and a touch of white blossom. The palate carries grapefruit and nashi pear, dry and quietly savoury, with a hint of toasted almond on the mid-palate.

Acidity is the frame here: fine, bright and persistent, drawing the wine into a long, saline finish. The white marl and limestone of the Champ Pourot vineyard show up as a firm, mineral spine rather than any real weight, and the 30-year-old vines lend a subtle depth of flavour without softening that line.

Serve it with oysters, grilled snapper, chicken poached with tarragon, or a plate of goat's cheese and good bread. It also handles richer seafood — scallops, prawns off the barbecue — better than its slim build might suggest.

Drink the Givry Blanc 2023 now through to about 2029, with a year or two in the cellar likely to fill out the mid-palate.