The Domaine Couturier Pouilly-Loché Le Bourg 2023 is a taut, savoury Chardonnay from Pouilly-Loché in southern Burgundy's Mâconnais. Ripe stone fruit sits over a chalky, mineral spine, giving a white with more grip and length than its price band usually allows.

Aromatics lead with white peach and grapefruit pith, then a lick of hazelnut and warm pastry from the wine's time in French oak barrels. The palate is fleshy through the middle without turning broad, carrying pear, lemon curd and a faint smokiness across the tongue.

Structure comes from acidity rather than weight, drawing the fruit out to a dry, stony finish. Hand-harvested fruit and fermentation with indigenous yeasts show in the texture, which has a gentle creaminess that never blurs the line of the wine. Domaine Couturier farms organically and biodynamically, and the wine has the clarity you'd hope for from that approach.

Serve it with roast chicken and thyme, scallops, a leek and gruyère tart, or Coffin Bay oysters cooked rather than raw. It also handles richer Asian dishes well, particularly anything with coconut or ginger.

Drink the Pouilly-Loché Le Bourg 2023 now through to around 2029, with the middle of that stretch likely the sweet spot as the oak folds fully into the fruit.