The Domaine Couturier Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Scellés 2023 is a generous, gently mineral Chardonnay from Pouilly-Fuissé in the Mâconnais end of Burgundy, with more flesh than nerve. It draws on two climats — the shale of Les Scellés at Fuissé and the deep, clay-rich soil of Clos Reyssié at Chaintré, and the two halves show as breadth and grip in equal measure.

White peach and ripe pear lead, then quince, lemon curd and a touch of acacia honey, with a chalky, faintly smoky edge underneath the fruit. Air brings out something creamier and more nutty without losing the citrus.

The palate is rounded and quite broad through the middle, carried by a fine seam of acidity rather than a sharp one. 2023 was a warm, late-picked season in the Mâconnais, with harvest running into September under temperatures of 35 to 40 degrees, and that ripeness shows in the wine's soft, easy balance and long, faintly saline finish.

Serve it with roast chicken, pork loin with apple, scallops in butter, or a wedge of Comté. It also handles richer fish — blue eye, kingfish, anything with a cream or beurre blanc sauce — without being overwhelmed.

Drinking well now and through to about 2029, with the mid-palate weight to reward a couple of years in the cellar. Decant or simply pour it a little warmer than fridge temperature.