The Domaine Couturier Mâcon Fuissé 2022 is a bright, finely drawn Chardonnay from the Mâconnais in southern Burgundy, built on citrus and stone rather than richness. Grown on organic and biodynamically certified vines around the commune of Fuissé, it carries real precision for a village-level Mâcon.

Grapefruit pith, white peach and lemon zest lead the aromatics, with a chalky, faintly smoky edge underneath and a touch of hazelnut and crushed apple as the glass warms.

The palate is dry and crystalline, medium-bodied, with fine acidity running the length of it and a subtle creaminess through the middle that keeps things from feeling austere. Old vines — many parcels well over 70 years — show in the depth of flavour rather than any weight, and the finish is long, saline and clean.

Serve this Mâcon Fuissé with oysters, grilled whiting, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, or a wedge of Comté. It also handles a plate of prawn dumplings better than most white Burgundy at this level.

Drinking well now and through to around 2028, with the acid line to hold the fruit as it broadens. Serve at 10–12°C, and give a young bottle twenty minutes in the glass.