The Domaine Couturier Bourgogne Blanc 2023 is a dry, quietly detailed Chardonnay from Burgundy, grown in the Mâconnais in the south of the region. It leans towards citrus and stone rather than richness, with enough flesh to feel generous on its own.

Lemon pith, white peach and a touch of hazelnut come first, with something faintly chalky sitting underneath. Air brings out orchard fruit and a little beeswax, and the fruit stays bright rather than tipping into anything tropical.

The palate is medium-bodied and even, the acidity firm without being sharp, and the texture has a light creaminess through the middle that gives it more presence than the appellation might suggest. The finish is dry and mineral, closing on grapefruit and a saline edge that keeps you coming back. Couturier's vines here average fifteen to twenty years and sit on schist topsoil over calcareous clay near the village of Loché, and that combination shows in the wine's tension.

Good with roast chicken, pan-fried whiting, scallops with brown butter, or a leek and gruyère tart. It also handles softer cheeses and a plate of prosciutto and melon well enough for a long lunch.

Drink the Bourgogne Blanc 2023 now through to about 2030. Domaine Couturier build their wines to age, and this one has the acid structure to reward a few years in the cellar if you can leave it alone.