The Domaine Jean-Louis Chavy Bourgogne Blanc 2023 is a bright, dry Chardonnay from Burgundy that leads with citrus and orchard fruit rather than richness. Medium-bodied and clean-lined, it sits comfortably between an everyday white and something you would pour for guests.

Aromas run to lemon pith, white peach and green apple, with a faint almond and crushed-stone note underneath. The palate follows the same path, with pear and grapefruit flavours carried on a fine, slightly saline core rather than any obvious sweetness of fruit.

Acidity is the frame here: firm, tidy and refreshing, giving the wine shape without sharpness. Texture is gently rounded through the middle, and the finish is dry and moderately long, tailing off on lemon and a chalky bitterness that makes you reach for the glass again. This is Bourgogne Blanc in its most useful form — precise, unshowy Chardonnay you can drink a whole bottle of.

Serve it lightly chilled with oysters, grilled whiting, prawns with garlic and parsley, or a roast chicken with lemon. It also handles trickier plates well: goat's cheese salads, leek tart, or a bowl of pasta with olive oil and herbs.

Drink the Jean-Louis Chavy Bourgogne Blanc 2023 now and over the next three to four years, while the citrus definition is still front and centre.