The Domaine Fabien Coche Auxey-Duresses Blanc 2023 is a bright, sappy Chardonnay from Auxey-Duresses in Burgundy, with more citrus tension than richness. Sitting in the hills behind Meursault, Auxey-Duresses gives this white a firmer, cooler edge than its better-known neighbour.

Lemon pith, white peach and green apple lead the aromatics, with a chalky, faintly nutty undertone and a lift of crushed herb. The palate follows the same line: taut stone fruit, a squeeze of grapefruit, and a savoury, oatmeal quality building through the middle.

Acidity is the spine here. The 2023 growing season across the Côte de Beaune brought a generous crop and gradual ripening before a September heat spike hurried the whites in, and the result in this bottle is a wine with generous fruit weight held in check by a clean, mineral finish rather than heaviness. Texture is fine-grained, the mouthfeel gently creamy without softening the shape.

Roast chicken with lemon and thyme is the obvious match, though the wine is just as happy with grilled flathead, scallops, a gratin of potato and cream, or a plate of gruyère and walnuts. Fabien Coche's family have farmed in Meursault for generations, tending parcels across Auxey-Duresses, Monthelie and Pommard, and this is white Burgundy made for the table rather than the cellar shelf.

Drink now through to about 2029, with a decant or an hour in the glass helping the younger bottles open up.