The Domaine Fabien Coche Saint-Romain Blanc 2023 is a taut, mineral-driven Chardonnay from Saint-Romain in Burgundy, built more on line and clarity than on richness. Sitting high above the Côte de Beaune, the 2023 comes across as crisp and precise, with just enough flesh to keep it generous.

Aromatically, the wine leans white-fleshed: nashi pear, lemon pith and a touch of white blossom, with a wet-stone lift underneath. The palate follows through with green apple and grapefruit, a light hazelnut note and a saline edge that keeps things savoury rather than fruity.

Fabien Coche draws this cuvée from the Sous La Velle and Le Jarron vineyards, two sites tucked into the Saint-Romain valley that offer useful shelter in a warm season like 2023 — and it shows in the wine's acidity, which stays firm and drives straight through the middle. Texture is fine and slightly chalky, the finish dry and long with a citrus twist.

Serve it with oysters, whiting fillets, a chicken and leek pie, or a wedge of Comté. It also handles roast pork and mustardy dressings well, given the acid.

Drink now for the tension and citrus, or cellar through to around 2030, by which time the nutty, honeyed side of Saint-Romain Chardonnay should be doing more of the talking.