The Philippe Collotte Marsannay Blanc Champsalomon 2022 is a bright, clean-lined Chardonnay from Marsannay at the northern end of Burgundy's Côte de Nuits. Citrus and white orchard fruit lead, with a chalky firmness underneath that keeps everything taut rather than plush.

Aromatically the Champsalomon offers lemon peel, white peach and green apple, with a faint hazelnut and crushed-stone character sitting behind the fruit. Air brings out something floral, closer to acacia than blossom, and a light saline edge.

On the palate this Marsannay blanc is medium-bodied and dry, the acidity running straight through the middle without sharpness. Texture is the interesting part: there is a gentle creaminess across the tongue that gives way to a drier, mineral finish, and the wine tapers rather than broadens as it goes. Length is good and the aftertaste stays savoury.

Serve it with roast chicken, a leek and gruyère tart, scallops, or grilled whiting with lemon. It also handles cheese well, particularly Comté or a young goat's curd, and works nicely with a simple bowl of pasta and butter-fried breadcrumbs.

Drink the 2022 now through to about 2029, ideally at 10 to 12 degrees. Younger bottles reward decanting for twenty minutes; with a few more years, expect the citrus to move towards quince and honey while the mineral core holds firm.