The Philippe Collotte Marsannay Blanc 2023 is a bright, cleanly drawn Chardonnay from Marsannay, at the northern end of Burgundy's Côte de Nuits. It leans on citrus and white flowers rather than richness, with the tension you want in a young white Burgundy.

Lemon zest, white peach and orchard blossom lead the aromatics, with a dusting of crushed stone and a faint hazelnut note sitting behind. The palate follows suit: grapefruit pith, green apple and a saline edge that keeps everything moving.

Medium-bodied and unforced, the wine carries a fine chalky texture through the middle before a dry, lightly savoury finish. Acidity is the frame here, firm without being austere, and 2023 was a generous year for white Burgundy in the Côte d'Or, which shows in the flesh across the mid-palate rather than in any heaviness. The Collotte family have grown grapes at Marsannay for four generations, and the domaine works its vineyards by plough rather than chemical weed control.

Pour it with roast chicken, scallops, a leek and gruyère tart, or a plate of oysters. It also handles simple grilled white fish and lemon well, and is good enough on its own to open before dinner.

Drink the Marsannay Blanc 2023 now through to about 2029, with a decant or a splash of air helping the youngest bottles open up.