The Philippe Collotte Bourgogne Blanc 2024 is a bright, unoaked Chardonnay from Burgundy, made by a Marsannay family domaine in the Côte de Nuits. Lean rather than rich, it leads with citrus and orchard fruit and keeps its acidity front and centre.

The aromatics are clean and direct: lemon pith, green apple, a little white peach, with a chalky, almost saline edge underneath. Air brings out something closer to pear skin and crushed nuts, but the fruit stays taut rather than tropical.

Raised in stainless steel to keep the wine precise, this Bourgogne Blanc has no vanilla or toast to soften it. The palate is medium-bodied and dry, the acid line firm and drawn out, with a faintly bitter almond grip on the finish that stops it from being simply sharp. Texture comes from the fruit itself rather than from any winemaking gloss.

Serve it well chilled with oysters, grilled whiting, chicken and leek pie, or a plate of goat's cheese and bread. It also holds up nicely against a Thai green curry, where the acidity does the work that a heavier white cannot.

Drink the Philippe Collotte Bourgogne Blanc 2024 from now to around 2029, with the sweet spot in the next two to three years while the citrus is still lifted.