The Domaine Pierrick-Laroche Chablis Les Châtillons 2023 is a taut, mineral-driven Chardonnay from Chablis in Burgundy, built on citrus and wet stone rather than richness. Les Châtillons is the most calcareous of Pierrick Laroche's village-level sites, planted in 1972-73, and the wine is bottled separately for its length and precision.

Aromas lead with lemon pith, green apple and a struck-flint edge, with a little white blossom and crushed oyster shell behind. Roughly 15 per cent of the wine is aged in wood, with the balance raised in steel, and that shows as a faint nutty warmth rather than any obvious oak character.

The palate is lean and linear, acidity running straight through the middle without any hard edges. Texture comes from the old vines rather than weight, giving a slightly saline, chalky feel across the tongue, and the finish is long, dry and distinctly stony.

Pour this Chablis with freshly shucked oysters, grilled whiting, chicken poached with tarragon, or a wedge of young goat's cheese. It also handles simply dressed salads and anything involving lemon and good olive oil.

Drink from now through to around 2030. The 2023 is approachable young, though a year or two in the cellar will let the wood component knit further into the fruit.