The Domaine Pierrick-Laroche Petit Chablis 2024 is a lean, brightly citrus Chardonnay from Chablis in northern Burgundy, built for freshness rather than richness. Grown on the higher Portlandian limestone that defines the Petit Chablis appellation, it is crisp, dry and unshowy, with the chalky bite the region is known for.

Lemon pith, green apple and a touch of white flower come through first, with a wet-stone edge that sits behind the fruit rather than over it. Nothing is overworked here; the aromas are direct and the fruit stays taut.

On the palate the 2024 is slim and quick, with firm acidity running the length of the wine and a faint saline grip on the finish. Texture comes from that mineral drive rather than any weight of fruit, and it closes short, clean and dry. The 2024 season in Chablis was a genuinely hard one — hail through spring, a long interrupted flowering and persistent mildew cut yields sharply — and the wines that came through tend to be nervy and high-toned, which is exactly how this Petit Chablis reads.

Serve it well chilled with Sydney rock oysters, prawns off the barbecue, goat's cheese on toast or a plate of whitebait. It also does honest work as an aperitif when you want acid rather than aromatics.

Drink now through to 2027, while the citrus is still bright and the acidity carries the wine.