The Domaine Christophe Patrice Chablis AC 2025 is a dry, taut Chardonnay from Chablis in Burgundy, built on citrus and wet-stone rather than richness. Pale straw with a green edge, it is unmistakably Chablis in shape: lean through the middle, long at the back.

Lemon and grapefruit lead the aromatics, with white flowers, green apple and a chalky, almost saline note that sits underneath rather than on top. There is a touch of crushed oyster shell and a hint of fresh herb as the wine warms in the glass.

Acidity does the work here, driving straight and clean from the first sip to a dry, mineral finish. The texture is fine and slightly steely, with just enough flesh around the middle to keep it from feeling austere, and no sweetness anywhere. Christophe Patrice farms vines in Beine, Courgis and Chablis, planted unusually widely at around 5,800 vines per hectare, with much of the fruit drawn from old plantings.

Oysters are the obvious call, and a good one. Beyond that, try it with raw kingfish, prawns off the barbecue, goat's cheese, or a simple roast chicken with lemon. It also handles a plain green salad and a wedge of quiche better than most whites.

Drink the Chablis AC 2025 over the next four to five years, chilled but not icy — around 10 to 12 degrees lets the fruit show alongside the acid.