The Bonnaire Cramant Nature 2022 is a taut, dry Champagne from Cramant in the Côte des Blancs, made without dosage so nothing softens the edges. Expect chalk and citrus rather than richness, with a fine, persistent bead.

Lemon zest, green apple and white blossom lead the aromatics, with a faint saline lift and a hint of fresh bread crust underneath. Air brings out grapefruit pith and something closer to crushed oyster shell.

Bone dry across the palate, the Cramant Nature 2022 runs on bright acidity and a thin, mineral spine that carries through to a clean, dry finish. The mousse is fine rather than foamy, and the absence of dosage leaves a slightly austere, savoury edge that gains texture as the wine warms in the glass.

Pour it with Sydney rock oysters, raw kingfish or lightly grilled prawns. It also stands up to salt-and-pepper squid and works with a plate of hard cheese and green apple at the end of a meal.

Drinking well now, particularly with food, and it should hold and gain a little breadth over the next six to eight years for anyone who prefers a more developed style of Champagne.