The Bubb + Pooley Chardonnay 2024 is a taut, cool-climate Tasmanian white from the Coal River Valley, made by Justin Bubb and Anna Pooley. Fermentation across a concrete sphere and a mix of barriques, with malolactic conversion blocked, gives a wine built on acidity and clarity rather than richness.

Grapefruit pith, white nectarine and lemon blossom lead the aromatics, with a faint struck-match and oyster-shell edge sitting underneath. The palate follows the nose closely: green apple, quince and a squeeze of citrus, with the barrel component reading as spice and subtle nuttiness rather than anything sweet or toasty.

Acidity is the frame here, long and finely drawn, and the concrete-fermented portion lends a chalky, slightly saline texture through the middle. The finish is dry and mineral, tapering rather than broadening, and the modest 13% alcohol keeps everything light on its feet. Bubb and Pooley regard this vintage as closer to the freshness and higher acidity they are chasing, and it shows.

Pour it with grilled flathead, scallops in brown butter, chicken poached with tarragon, or a plate of Bruny Island oysters. It also handles a sharp, young goat's cheese without losing its shape.

Drinking well from now, though the acid line suggests it will build texture and complexity in the bottle through to around 2032.