The Bremley Vineyard Chardonnay 2025 is a taut, cool-climate Tasmanian chardonnay from the Coal River Valley, grown on the northernmost vineyard in the valley. Citrus and white stone fruit lead, with oak playing a supporting role rather than setting the tone.

Grapefruit, nashi pear and lemon curd come first, followed by white peach, crushed oyster shell and a light touch of toasted hazelnut. Whole-bunch pressing and fermentation in French oak puncheons, 30% of them new, have added flesh and a faint nutty warmth without smothering the fruit.

The palate is lean through the middle in the best sense, with fine acidity running the length of the wine and a creamy, gently chalky texture filling in behind it. The finish is long, dry and faintly saline, the sort of savoury edge that makes you reach for the glass again.

Pour it with grilled flathead, scallops in butter, roast chicken with lemon and thyme, or a wedge of aged cheddar. It also holds up nicely to richer dishes such as pork belly or a mushroom risotto.

Bremley's 2025 chardonnay drinks well now, particularly with an hour in a decanter, and the balance of acid and fruit weight suggests it will reward five to eight years in the cellar.