The Ministry of Clouds Chardonnay 2024 is a taut, cool-climate Adelaide Hills white built on tension rather than richness. Fruit from low-yielding Birdwood, Echunga and Woodside sites gives it flesh, while late-ripening Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay supplies the nervy acid line that runs the length of the wine.

The nose is restrained at first and rewards a little air, opening on green nectarine and white blossom with ginger spice and a savoury edge of nougat and cheese rind. Handpicked and whole-bunch pressed to barrel with full solids for a wild ferment, the 2024 carries a subtle worked complexity without ever tipping into breadth.

Nine months on fine lees, with partial malolactic and no bâtonnage, has built texture the quiet way. The palate is chalky and mineral underneath, with intense white stone fruit sitting over the top and a long, dry, citrus-driven finish that leaves the mouth clean.

Roast chicken with plenty of garlic is the producer's own suggestion and it is hard to argue with. Beyond that, try it with steamed blue swimmer crab, a leek and gruyère tart, or grilled whiting with lemon. Serve it at around 12°C, no colder, or the aromatics stay shut.

Drink the Ministry of Clouds Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2024 now through to about 2032, with the acid structure suggesting the middle years will be the most generous.