The Escarpment Chardonnay 2024 is a taut, citrus-driven white from Martinborough, built more on line and drive than on richness. It sits at the leaner, more savoury end of New Zealand Chardonnay, with real mineral grip through the middle.

Grapefruit and white nectarine lead the aromatics, with lemon curd, a touch of struck flint and a faint nuttiness sitting behind. The fruit is bright rather than tropical, and there is a chalky, almost saline note that lifts as the wine opens in the glass. On the palate the wine is medium-bodied and tightly wound, with lemon pith and green apple carried by firm acidity. Texture builds through the middle without ever turning broad, and the finish is dry, faintly smoky and long, closing on citrus rind and a stony bite.

Pour it with roast chicken and tarragon, seared scallops, a leek and gruyère tart, or grilled snapper with lemon and olive oil. It also handles richer seafood pasta well, where the acidity cuts through cream. Drink from now through to around 2030, with a year or two in bottle likely to soften the acid line and bring the toasty, nutty characters further forward. Serve it lightly chilled rather than cold, at about 12 degrees.