The William Fèvre Montmains 1er Cru Chablis 2023 is a taut, mineral-driven Chardonnay from the left bank of the Serein, where the Montmains slope gives wines more tension and less flesh than the grand cru hillside opposite. Fèvre's 2023 is generous in fruit by Chablis standards but keeps the cool, chalky spine the appellation is known for.

Green apple and firm pear lead the aromatics, with lemon zest, white blossom and a briny, oyster-shell edge that becomes clearer as the wine warms in the glass. The palate follows the nose closely — citrus pith, under-ripe nectarine and a faint whiff of struck flint — all carried on fruit rather than any obvious winemaking flourish.

Medium-bodied and dry, the Montmains 2023 runs on a fine, linear acidity that stretches the wine out rather than filling it. Texture comes from a light saline grip through the middle, and the finish is long, stony and clean, closing on lemon and sea spray. A vintage marked by variable summer weather and a hot September gave riper fruit than usual, so the wine is approachable early without losing its cut.

Serve at 10–12°C in a decent-sized white wine glass and ysters are the obvious match, but it works just as well with grilled whiting, scallops, chicken poached with tarragon or a wedge of young goat's cheese.

Drinking well now and through to about 2031.