The Domaine de la Mandelière Chablis 2023 is a dry, mineral-driven Chardonnay from Chablis in northern Burgundy, built on citrus and chalk rather than ripeness or weight. It is precise and unadorned, the sort of white that tastes of the stony ground it came from.

Lemon pith, green apple and a touch of white flower come first, with the faint oyster-shell note that marks good Chablis. There is a suggestion of pear and crushed stone underneath, and the aromatics stay tight rather than showy.

On the palate the fruit is lean and clean, with grapefruit and quince carried on a firm line of acidity. Texture is slippery rather than creamy, the mid-palate taut, and the finish runs long and dry with a saline, almost flinty edge that keeps you coming back.

Oysters are the obvious call and they work beautifully, but so do grilled whiting, prawns with lemon, a goat's cheese salad, or roast chicken with tarragon. Serve it cold but not icy, around 10 degrees, so the texture has a chance to show.

Drinking well now and over the next four to five years, with the acid structure to carry it comfortably to 2029 for those who like a little more development in their Chablis.