The Domaine de la Mandelière Petit Chablis 2023 is a brisk, unadorned white Chardonnay from Chablis in northern Burgundy. Expect citrus and orchard fruit carried on a lean, mineral frame rather than any sense of richness.

Green apple, lemon pith and a touch of white pear come through on the nose, with the faint chalky, almost flinty edge that marks Chablis out from warmer Chardonnay country. Nothing is overstated — the aromatics are quiet and precise, and they open a little as the wine warms in the glass.

The palate is dry and taut, with acidity running straight down the middle and a saline, stony quality on the finish. Texture is light to medium, closer to spring water than cream, and the wine finishes clean and short-ish in the best sense, leaving the mouth refreshed rather than coated.

Oysters are the obvious call and a good one, though it works just as happily with grilled whiting, prawn cutlets, a goat's cheese salad or a plate of charcuterie and cornichons. Serve it properly cold, around 8 to 10 degrees, and avoid anything heavily sauced.

Drink from now through to 2027, while the fruit is bright and the acidity still has its snap.