The Domaine Cauhapé Jurançon sec Geyser 2021 is a dry white from Jurançon in South-West France with real aromatic lift and a fine, saline core. Built on Gros Manseng and Petit Manseng alongside the rare local varieties Camaralet, Lauzet and Courbu, it tastes of citrus and yellow-fleshed fruit rather than anything tropical and sweet.

Aromatically, Geyser leads with grapefruit zest, white peach and quince, then a floral edge and a twist of white pepper that comes from the older local grapes in the blend. The palate follows the nose closely: mandarin, nectarine and a touch of preserved lemon, all carried on juicy, bright fruit.

Acidity is the frame here, firm and clean without being sharp, and the texture has a slight waxy weight that stops the wine feeling austere. Golden in the glass, it finishes long, dry and faintly salty, with the pepper note lingering after the fruit has faded.

Pour it with oysters, prawns or a whole flounder with lemon, and it handles trickier things too — Thai-spiced fish cakes, chicken with tarragon, or aged goat's cheese at the end of a meal. Serve it cool but not cold, around 10 to 12 degrees.

Drink the Jurançon sec Geyser 2021 now and across the next couple of years, to about 2026, while the citrus drive and aromatic detail are at their best.