The Domaine Cauhapé L'Eclipse 2022 is a dry white from Jurançon in South-West France, a blend of 80% Gros Manseng and 20% Lauzet that trades on brightness and texture rather than weight. Aromatic and firmly dry, it sits somewhere between a zesty aperitif white and something with enough substance for the table.

Grapefruit, lemon zest and white peach lead the aroma, with a floral lift and a faint hint of spice sitting behind the fruit. The palate follows through with citrus and stone fruit, a touch of exotic fruit at the edges, and the gently smoky, herbal character that Gros Manseng tends to bring.

Hand-picked fruit, a short skin maceration and five months on lees give L'Eclipse a silky, slightly creamy mid-palate, while a partial malolactic softens the edges without dulling the acidity. That acid line is the backbone here, carrying the wine through a long, dry, faintly saline finish with a pleasing bitter twist at the very end.

Pour it with oysters, grilled prawns or a plate of jamón, and it also handles harder work: roast chicken with lemon, pork belly, Thai salads and anything with chilli and lime. Serve it cold but not icy, around 10 degrees, so the texture has room to show.

Drinking well now and through to about 2028.