The Domaine de la Pigeade Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise 2023 is a sweet vin doux naturel from the Rhône Valley, made entirely from Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains. Pale gold and intensely perfumed, it carries real sweetness without turning heavy or cloying.

Rose water and orange blossom lift out of the glass first, followed by pear, white peach and a touch of mango and dried apricot. The fruit is hand-harvested and given a brief cold soak on skins before pressing, which shows in the depth of aroma rather than any weight of colour.

Fermentation is stopped by fortification, leaving grape sugar in place, so the palate is unctuous and coating while the spirit keeps the whole thing upright. Acidity runs through the middle, cutting the honeyed richness, and the finish is long, faintly citrus-peel bitter and cleaner than the sweetness suggests.

Serve it well chilled with almond tart, poached stone fruit, crème brûlée or a wedge of blue cheese. Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise also works before dinner rather than after, a small glass with salted nuts or foie gras, and it is very good simply on its own at the end of a long lunch.

Drink the 2023 now and over the next five to eight years. Fresh and floral in its youth, it will slowly trade blossom for marmalade, honey and toasted nut character with time in the cellar.