The Clos Naudin (Foreau) Vouvray Moelleux 2020 is a sweet Chenin Blanc from Vouvray in the Loire Valley, rich without being heavy and carried by a bright seam of acidity. Sweetness here reads as concentration rather than syrup, which is what keeps the wine light on its feet.

Quince paste, poached pear and dried apricot lead the aromatics, with honeycomb, chamomile and a chalky, wet-stone edge behind them. Air brings out orange marmalade and a touch of ginger.

The palate is unctuous at first, then narrows and lengthens as the acidity takes over, so the finish is clean and faintly bitter rather than cloying. Texture is the point: honeyed weight across the middle, a fine mineral grip on the close, and length that carries well past the last of the sugar. The warm, early 2020 season across the Loire shows in the ripe stone-fruit core, though the wine holds its tension.

Pour it with a well-aged Comté, a blue such as Roquefort, or a terrine with fruit paste. It also handles roast pork with apple, or spiced Asian dishes with chilli heat, and is more than capable of standing alone after dinner in place of dessert.

Drinking well now with an hour's air, and built to develop for two decades or more in a cool cellar, gaining nuttiness and beeswax as the fruit dries towards marmalade.