The Paul Bara Annonciade 2008 is a grand cru Champagne from Bouzy, built on the power of ripe Pinot Noir and softened by long ageing into something golden, savoury and generous. Barrel fermentation gives the 2008 a breadth that sets it apart from the house's other Bouzy cuvées.

Aromas run to baked apple and yellow stone fruit, with brioche, roasted hazelnut and a lick of vanilla from the wood. Time on lees has drawn out honey, dried citrus peel and a faint smokiness, while the mousse stays fine and persistent.

On the palate the Annonciade shows real intensity of fruit, then tightens: the 2008 vintage was a famously cool, slow season in Champagne, and that firm, chalky acidity runs the length of the wine. A dosage of just 5 g/L keeps it dry, the texture is broad and creamy through the middle, and the finish carries a pleasing bitter twist of grapefruit pith and toasted nut.

Serve it with food rather than as an aperitif. Roast chicken, seared scallops, a mushroom risotto or a plate of aged comté and gruyère all suit the weight of this Bouzy grand cru.

Drinking beautifully now after more than a decade on lees, and with the acid backbone to hold and develop through to around 2033. Open it an hour ahead in a white wine glass.