The Gosset Celebris Extra Brut 2012 is the prestige cuvée of a house based in Épernay, Champagne, and it is a taut, savoury style built on citrus and chalk rather than richness. Ten years on lees and a low dosage give it depth without ever loosening the acid line.

Aromas run to lemon confit, quince and green apple, with pastry, toasted hazelnut and a faint smokiness from the long ageing. Air brings out chamomile, dried herbs and a mushroomy note that signals real maturity in the glass.

Chardonnay makes up 70 per cent of the blend and shows in the fine, mineral spine, while the 30 per cent Pinot Noir fills the middle with weight and gentle red-fruited flesh. The mousse is fine and persistent, the texture chalky, and the 5.5 g/L dosage leaves the finish dry, saline and very long.

Serve the Celebris Extra Brut 2012 with Sydney rock oysters, king prawns or scallops seared in butter, or move up to roast chicken, Comté and mushroom risotto, where the wine's savoury side comes into its own.

Drinking beautifully now after its winter 2022 disgorgement, and with the structure to keep developing in a cold cellar for another ten to fifteen years.