Dom Pérignon Vintage 2017 is a rich, textural Champagne from a season that tested growers across the region, and the wine carries that tension between ripeness and precision. Expect a broad, faintly smoky style rather than a lean one, with fine, persistent bead and real depth of flavour.

The aromatics open slowly and reward a decant or a generous glass, since a touch of reduction sits over the fruit at first. Underneath there is white peach, dried apricot and citrus peel, then toasted hazelnut, brioche and a lick of cacao as it warms in the glass.

Across the palate the 2017 is creamy and quite full, the mousse soft rather than sharp, with the fruit given shape by a firm line of acidity through the middle. Chalky, saline grip builds towards the back and the finish is long, savoury and faintly smoky, holding that tang of citrus well after the wine has gone.