The Schoffit Crémant d'Alsace NV is a dry, finely beaded sparkling wine from Alsace, blended from Pinot Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. Picked at full ripeness and bottled without dosage, it trades sweetness for depth, so the fruit does the talking.

Aromas run to white peach, lemon curd and pressed apple, with the bready, almond-skin character that comes from time on lees. The palate is dry and quietly generous, the Pinot Auxerrois lending a soft orchard-fruit weight through the middle before citrus pith and a touch of chalk take over.

Structure comes from acidity rather than sugar. The mousse is fine and persistent, the texture closer to creamy than crisp, and the extra brut finish is long, savoury and clean, leaving a saline edge that has you reaching for the glass again.

Serve it well chilled as an aperitif, or put it to work at the table with oysters, salt-and-pepper squid, tempura vegetables or a plate of charcuterie. The bone-dry finish also handles washed-rind cheese better than most sparkling wine, and it is very good with anything fried.

Drinking beautifully now and through the next three to four years, though the lees character will grow richer and more toasty if you leave a bottle or two alone.