The Domaine Comte Abbatucci Empire Blanc 2021 is a textural, savoury white from Corsica, built on old indigenous Corsican varieties rather than obvious fruit. Expect a wine with real presence in the glass, more mountain herb and sea air than tropical sweetness.

Aromatically, the Empire Blanc leans towards white peach, quince and dried fennel, with wild herbs and crushed stone sitting underneath. The palate is broad but never heavy, carrying stone fruit, preserved lemon and a faint bitter almond edge that keeps everything honest.

Structure comes from phenolic grip as much as acidity, so the wine feels chalky and gently chewy through the middle before the finish tightens up and turns saline. Abbatucci farms biodynamically, and the Empire Blanc has that slightly wild, unpolished energy that comes with wines made this way — long, dry and mineral rather than glossy.

At the table it wants proper food: grilled snapper with olive oil and lemon, salt-baked fish, chargrilled octopus, brandade, or a plate of hard sheep's cheese and cured meats. Serve it cool rather than cold, around 12 degrees, and give it a decant if you are opening it young.

Drinking beautifully now and through to roughly 2030, with the structure to reward those who leave a bottle alone for a few years.