The Philippe Collotte Crémant de Bourgogne NV is a blanc de noirs sparkling wine from Burgundy, made entirely from Pinot Noir and built on pale red fruit rather than lemony austerity. Time on lees before disgorging gives it a soft, creamy bead and a little pastry richness alongside the fruit.

Aromas run to small strawberries, red apple skin and white peach, with brioche and toasted almond sitting underneath. The palate follows the same line: crunchy red fruit up front, a savoury lees character through the middle, and a faint chalkiness that keeps everything tidy. Fine, persistent mousse carries a dry, well-balanced palate with more texture than most Crémant at this level. Acidity is bright without being sharp, the body has genuine weight to it, and the finish is clean and dry with a lingering hint of biscuit.Serve it well chilled with oysters, freshly shucked prawns or salt and pepper squid. It also handles richer fare — roast chicken, a ham off the bone at Christmas, or a wedge of triple-cream brie — and makes an excellent aperitif when Champagne feels like overkill.

Drink the Philippe Collotte Crémant de Bourgogne now and over the next three to four years, while the fruit is fresh and the bead still lively. A little bottle age will build the toasty side if you would rather wait.