The Kientzler Crémant d'Alsace NV is a dry, finely beaded traditional-method sparkling from Alsace, built around Auxerrois and led by orchard fruit rather than toast or richness. Crisp, unshowy and genuinely refreshing, it sits closer to a good grower fizz than a party bottle.

Aromas run to pear skin, white peach and lemon pith, with a faint brioche note from time on lees and a chalky edge underneath. The palate follows the same line: green apple, quince and a squeeze of citrus, carried on a mousse that is soft rather than aggressive.

Structure comes from acidity more than weight. Kientzler, a family estate at Ribeauvillé working vineyards in and around the village, keeps this Crémant d'Alsace tightly wound and low on dosage sweetness, so the finish is dry, saline and cleanly cut, with the fruit lingering longer than the bubbles do.

Serve it cold as an apéritif, or with oysters, prawn cutlets, freshly shucked scallops or a plate of charcuterie and washed-rind cheese. It also handles salt-and-pepper squid and lighter Vietnamese dishes well, where the acidity does the work of a wedge of lime.

Drink now and over the next three years, while the citrus lift and fine bead are at their best.