Charles Melton NV Sparkling Red is a Barossa Valley classic built on Shiraz, made at Rowland Flat in the traditional Australian style. Deep crimson, full-bodied and gently sweet, it is the sort of sparkling red that works as well with Christmas ham as it does on a cold night on its own.

The nose leans into dark berry fruit, plum and Christmas spice, with a savoury, almost meaty edge from long ageing on lees. Cherry, blackberry and a lick of dark chocolate carry the palate, while a touch of sweetness in the dosage rounds everything out.

Mousse is fine and tongue-coating rather than aggressive, and the tannins sit underneath the fruit and give the wine grip through a long, spicy finish. Cabernet in the blend adds a firmer line, and old vine Grenache lifts the aromatics, so the overall impression is generous but not heavy.

Serve it lightly chilled with glazed ham, duck, roast turkey, barbecued pork ribs or a sharp cheddar. It also handles chilli and five-spice better than most reds, which makes it a good ring-in for a Sunday roast or a Boxing Day spread.

Drinking beautifully now, with the depth of fruit and the dosage to hold and slowly develop for another decade or more in a cool, dark spot.