Torbreck The Struie 2015 is a Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, drawn largely from the valley floor with a portion of cooler Eden Valley fruit, and this bottling comes in a 6L Imperial. It is a deep, dark-fruited Barossa red with more lift and aromatic detail than sheer power.

Cassis, plum and black cherry lead, with lavender, licorice and a dark chocolate edge underneath. The Eden Valley component shows in the top notes, giving the bouquet a perfume and vibrancy that Barossa Shiraz on its own rarely reaches.

The palate is full-bodied and firmly built, with chewy but polished tannins running through a long, savoury finish. Acidity holds the fruit in shape rather than letting it spread, and there is a faintly stony, iodine-like character that keeps the richness in check. The 2015 season helped here: good soil moisture from the previous year and a well-timed January downpour, followed by warm days and cool nights, delivered fruit with freshness and balance rather than jammy weight.

Pour it for a crowd, because a 6L bottle asks for one. Slow-roasted lamb shoulder, a standing rib roast, oxtail braised for hours, or hard aged cheddar at the end of the night.

Large format ages more slowly than a standard bottle, so The Struie 2015 in Imperial is drinking generously now and should hold well through 2035 and beyond. Decant it a good hour or two before serving.