The Torbreck The Laird 2012 is a full-bodied Shiraz from the Barossa Valley, and it sits at the powerful end of the region's style without turning jammy or soupy. Deep, dense and slow to unwind, this is a wine built for patience rather than a Tuesday night.

Aromatically, The Laird leads with blackberry, dark plum and satsuma-like citrus peel, backed by black pepper, dried thyme and a savoury note somewhere between bitter chocolate and roasting meat. Air brings out violets and a faint iodine edge that keeps all that fruit from feeling one-dimensional.

The palate of this Barossa Valley Shiraz is broad and deeply flavoured, with tannins that are substantial but finely milled, closer to graphite than grip. Acidity runs through the middle and stops the weight from settling, and the finish is long, warm and gently earthy, echoing dark fruit and spice well after the glass is down.

Match it with slow-cooked beef short rib, a well-charred rib eye, roast lamb shoulder with rosemary, or hard aged cheddar. Decant an hour ahead and serve just under room temperature — pushing it too warm exaggerates the alcohol and flattens the aromatics.

The 2012 is drinking well now with air, though it will reward cellaring through to around 2035 for those with the space and the discipline to leave it alone.