The Wirra Wirra House Block Shiraz 2022 is a McLaren Vale Shiraz of real concentration, drawn from a single hectare of old vines planted in the 1960s on deep sandy soils. Made in tiny volume from just two barrels in its debut vintage, it is dense and dark without tipping into heaviness.

Blackberry, satsuma plum and a smear of dark chocolate lead the aromatics, with dried thyme, black pepper and a faint iodine-like savouriness sitting behind the fruit. Air brings out something floral, closer to violet than to jam.

The palate is broad and deeply flavoured, but the sandy-soil signature shows in tannins that are fine and dusty rather than chewy, running the length of the wine. Acidity keeps the mid-palate lively, and the finish is long, warm and gently savoury, with the fruit fading into earth and spice rather than sweetness.

Pour it alongside a slow-cooked lamb shoulder with anchovy and rosemary, dry-aged beef rib over coals, or a mushroom and barley braise. Hard washed-rind cheeses work well too, as does anything cooked over red gum.

Drink from now through to 2037. The 2022 has the fruit weight and tannin structure to reward a decade or more in the cellar, though a decant of an hour makes it thoroughly enjoyable tonight.