The Glenfion Canyonleigh Syrah 2015 is a cool-climate New South Wales red built on perfume and savoury detail rather than sheer power. Deeply coloured but medium-bodied in the mouth, it leans towards pepper, dried herb and dark berry fruit.

Aromatically, this Syrah opens with a floral, white-pepper lift over blackberry and satsuma plum, with smoky earth, dried thyme and a meaty, almost charcuterie edge that comes with a few years in bottle. The palate follows the nose closely, dark fruit sitting alongside red liquorice and a green peppercorn twist.

Canyonleigh's altitude shows in the shape of the wine: fine, slightly grippy tannins, bright acidity holding the mid-palate together, and a finish that trails off savoury and peppery rather than sweet. Texture is supple, and at 13% alcohol there is no heat to get in the way of the aromatics.

Roast lamb with rosemary, duck breast, mushroom risotto or a peppery beef pie all work well. Anything with char off the grill will pick up the smoky side of the wine.

Drinking well now and through to around 2028, with the fruit already showing gentle tertiary complexity. Decant briefly if opening young in the evening.