The Bubb + Pooley Syrah 2022 is a cool-climate Tasmanian syrah of real lift and fine bone, more perfumed than powerful. Fruit for the 2022 comes largely from the Coal River Valley and the Tamar Valley, co-fermented with a small portion of viognier added as whole bunch.

Violets and white pepper come first, then satsuma plum, raspberry and a twist of dried bay. The viognier shows as apricot skin and floral top notes rather than sweetness, and there is a savoury, almost charcuterie edge underneath. Ten months in French oak puncheons, a third of them new, sits quietly in the background as cedar and spice.

At 12.8% alcohol, the palate is medium-bodied and finely drawn, with sappy tannins and bright acidity carrying the fruit rather than propping it up. Twenty days on skins with gentle handling has given texture without heaviness, and the finish is long, peppery and dry.

Pair it with duck breast, lamb backstrap with rosemary, mushroom risotto or a plate of good salami and pickles. It rewards a decant and is best served a touch below room temperature.

Drinking well now and through to around 2030, with the acid and tannin structure to reward another few years in the cellar.