The JC's Own Shiraz 2023 from Greenock in the Barossa Valley is a deeply flavoured but well-mannered Barossa red, made by Jaysen Collins from dry-grown fruit on Greenock's red clay. Richness is there in spades, though it comes with a chalky tannin line that keeps the wine moving rather than sitting heavy.

Dark cherry, mulberry and blackberry lead the aromatics, trailed by aniseed, cola and a whiff of cured meat. Air brings a graphite edge and a lift of dried purple flowers.

Fermented in concrete, this Greenock Shiraz carries its weight on a supple, almost silky mid-palate, with a briny, savoury undertow cutting through the ripe fruit. Tannins are fine and slightly grainy, drawing out a long finish that leans more on spice and mineral grip than sweetness.

Pour it alongside slow-roasted lamb shoulder with rosemary, a rare porterhouse off the coals, or a mushroom and barley risotto with plenty of black pepper. Hard cheeses and cured sausage work just as well on a colder night.

Drinking beautifully from now through to around 2033, with a decant of an hour helping it along in its youth. The mid-weight structure suggests the fruit and tannin will still be in conversation well into the next decade.