The Charles Melton Shiraz 2003 is a warm, savoury Barossa Valley Shiraz from Krondorf that has settled into its mature phase, trading primary fruit sweetness for earth and spice. Twenty-plus years on, the 2003 shows the concentration of a low-yielding, early season rather than sheer size.

Aromatics lean tertiary: stewed plum and dried cherry, leather, black olive and a whiff of dried thyme, with sweet baking spice sitting underneath. The palate follows the nose, mid-weight and layered, with soft dark fruit giving way to iodine, cured meat and a dusting of cocoa.

Tannins have long since resolved into something fine and powdery, framing the fruit rather than gripping it. A dry winter and spring ahead of the 2003 vintage cut Barossa crop levels, and that concentration shows up as depth and persistence on a finish that runs long and gently earthy.

Pour it alongside slow-braised beef cheek, roast duck with quince, mushroom ragù, or a wedge of aged cheddar. Older Barossa Shiraz such as this rewards decanting for twenty minutes and a slightly cooler serve, around 16 degrees.

Charles Melton Shiraz 2003 is drinking at its peak now and well-cellared bottles should hold through to about 2028, though this is a wine to open rather than keep waiting on.