The Jasper Hill Emily's Paddock Shiraz 2022 is a perfumed, tightly wound Heathcote red in which a small portion of cabernet franc lifts the aromatics and sharpens the edges. Grown on the estate's ancient Cambrian soils under organic and biodynamic practice, this is Shiraz built on spice and structure rather than sheer ripeness.

Dark plum, mulberry and satsuma-skin fruit lead the aromatics, with black pepper, dried thyme and a flicker of mint sitting behind. The palate is deep and savoury, blue fruit and iron running through a core of graphite and cured meat, the cabernet franc showing as leaf and violet at the edges.

Tannins are fine-grained and persistent, closer to fine sand than velvet, and they carry a long, mineral finish. Acidity holds the fruit taut, so for all its concentration the wine feels lean and long rather than broad, gathering weight in the glass over an hour or two.

Pour it alongside slow-roasted lamb shoulder with anchovy and rosemary, dry-aged beef rib, or a mushroom and lentil braise. Aged pecorino and hard washed-rind cheeses work well once the bottle has been open a while.

Drink from 2027 through to the mid-2040s. A year or two more in bottle will bring the fruit and tannin into line, and decanting is worth the effort if you are opening one young.