The Ulithorne Familia Shiraz 2022 is a generous, mid-weight McLaren Vale shiraz that leads with dark fruit and a savoury edge rather than sheer power. Bottled under screwcap, this 2022 shiraz is approachable now and has enough grip to reward a few years in the rack.

Aromas run to blackberry, plum skin and mulberry, with cocoa, dried herbs and a lick of black pepper sitting behind the fruit. The palate follows through with satsuma plum and dark chocolate, a touch of licorice, and the warm earthy character McLaren Vale shiraz tends to bring.

Structure comes from fine, gently chalky tannin and acidity that keeps the ripe fruit in line, so the wine feels supple rather than heavy. The finish is long and slightly savoury, with cocoa and pepper lingering after the fruit fades.

Serve at around 16 to 18 degrees and give the bottle half an hour open if you are drinking it young. Enjoy with lamb shoulder, a rare porterhouse, slow-cooked beef cheeks or a mushroom and thyme risotto all work well, as does anything off the barbecue with a bit of char.

The Familia Shiraz is drinking well from now through to about 2032.