The Trimbach Pinot Noir Réserve 2023 is a bright, medium-bodied Alsace red built on red fruit and lift rather than depth of colour or weight. Fully destemmed and raised in large foudres and concrete rather than new oak, it keeps the fruit clean and the tannins fine.

Aromas run to morello cherry, pomegranate and wild strawberry, with violet florals and a light dusting of pepper and dried herb behind them. The palate follows the nose closely — tart red cherry and cranberry, a savoury undertone somewhere between beetroot and forest floor, and no sweetness or confection anywhere in it.

Structurally this is a wine of line rather than muscle. Tannins are fine and melt away quickly, acidity is fresh and holds everything upright, and the finish is dry, mouth-watering and moderate in length. The 2023 season in Alsace was a testing one — a wet, dull summer followed by a warm, sunny late run with big day-night swings — and that finish is where you taste it, with genuine ripeness in the fruit and acidity still intact underneath.

Serve it with a light chill alongside roast duck, mushroom risotto, charcuterie, coq au vin or a plate of soft washed-rind cheese. It also handles grilled salmon and roast pork better than most reds.

Drink now through to around 2030, with the best of it over the next three to four years.