The Paul Chavy Gevrey-Chambertin 2022 is a deep-coloured, generously fruited village Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin in Burgundy's Côte de Nuits. Warm 2022 in the region gave ripe, concentrated fruit while holding onto vibrant acidity, so the wine feels rich without losing its shape.

Aromatically, expect dark cherry and ripe raspberry, with earthier suggestions of forest floor, dried rose and a twist of black pepper. The palate follows the nose in the same register, plush red and black fruit carried on a savoury undertow that keeps things serious rather than sweet.

Paul Chavy works with fully de-stemmed fruit here, given a cold maceration and a long fermentation on skins with gentle daily pump-overs, then a year on fine lees in 228-litre barrels before bottling unfined. The result is fine, firm tannin, a bright acid line through the middle and a long, faintly stony finish. Medium-bodied but far from slight.

Roast duck, mushroom risotto, coq au vin or a simple rib of beef will all sit comfortably alongside this Gevrey-Chambertin. Softer washed-rind cheeses work too, as does anything involving beetroot and thyme.

Drink now with an hour in a decanter, or cellar with confidence. The 2022 vintage in Gevrey-Chambertin has the concentration and acidity to reward eight to ten years, with the tannins likely to settle beautifully from around 2027.