The David Duband Gevrey-Chambertin 2023 is a perfumed, medium-bodied Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuits, built on dark cherry fruit and fine, powdery tannin rather than muscle. Duband works his Gevrey-Chambertin parcels organically and ferments with a generous portion of whole bunches, which gives the 2023 a floral lift and a savoury edge alongside the fruit.

Aromas run to black cherry, ripe raspberry and rose petal, with the whole-bunch influence showing as crushed herb, tea leaf and a twist of black pepper. The palate follows through with sappy red and dark berry fruit, a hint of blood orange and the faint earthy undertow that marks out Gevrey-Chambertin.

Structurally the 2023 sits in the harmonious camp: ripe fruit at the front of the palate from a warm September, then a cool, invigorating line of acidity that keeps everything upright. Tannins are fine-grained and gently gripping, and the finish is long and mineral rather than sweet, with used-oak ageing leaving the fruit clear.

Serve it with duck breast, roast quail, mushroom risotto or a plate of charcuterie. Slightly chilled, around 15 degrees, it also handles grilled salmon and soft washed-rind cheeses.

Drinking well from 2026, with the balance and freshness to develop through to about 2035.